Finally!

The time has come to start a project which has been waiting patiently for several years, through my knitting slump and some more-pressing designs — and almost two weeks of delays which have been chronicled here. I have never before run into so many delays and then gone ahead and started the project. Normally, by now, I’d have given up and gone on to one of the two or three others dancing in my head. But thanks to having a blog now, I will press on. Thank goodness for the blog! I’ve wanted to make the shawl for something like eight years, and to set it aside again in favor of a shiny new project would be a stupidity.

Here’s the game plan so far:

Start Neck Band:

CO 5 provisionally. K 42 rows, slipping the first stitch of each row pw, wyif. (K until there are 21 ridges ON EACH SIDE).

Move work so ndl is to your right. Skipping the first selvage stitch, PUK 20 along the side of the strip you just made, one in each of the slipped edge stitches. K the 5 CO sts.  (30 sts)

(See below for list of abbreviations.)

 

Picture A shows Neck Band border strip completed, ready to pick up along the side. Pencil points to where the sts will be picked up.

Picture B shows the PUK process half-done.

 

A: Neckband start

A: Pencil points to where the sts will be picked up.

 

 

 

 

 

Halfway across the pickups

B: The PUK process half-done.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Picture C shows Pick-ups completed. Pencil points to the CO sts, which will be gotten next.

Picture D shows the Neck Band completed.

 

C: Pick-ups completed.

C: Pencil points to the CO sts.

D: Neckband completed.

D: Ready to continue down the shawl body!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place markers:  Sl 1, K 4, PM. K 2, PM, K 16, PM, K 2, PM, K 5.

This row can be broken down as follows:

1st Border: Sl 1, K 4, PM.

1st Side: K 2, PM

Center Panel: K 16, PM,

2nd Side: K 2, PM,

2nd Border: K 5.

 

 

Set up Body:

Row 1 (RS) —  Sl 1, K 4, SM (Slip Marker).  EM1, K 2, EM1, SM, K 16, SM, EM1, K 2, EM1, SM, K 5.

This row can also be written as follows:

Sl 1, K 1st Border, SM.

EM1, K 1st Side to next marker, EM1, SM.

K Center Panel.

SM, EM1, K 2nd Side to next marker, EM1.

SM, K 2nd Border.  (34 sts)

This kind of wording will be useful later, as the various parts grow.

 

 

Row 2 — Sl 1, K 4, SM. Work (K2,P2) across to 2nd Border. SM, K 5.

In other words: Work 1st Border, work (K2,P2) across to 2nd Border, work 2nd Border, slipping markers as you come to them.

 

 

Row 3 —

Work 1st Border, SM.

EM1, K 1st Side to next marker, EM1, SM.

K Center Panel.

SM, EM1, K 2nd Side to next marker, EM1.

SM, work 2nd Border.  (38 sts)

 

 

Row 4 — Work 1st Border, work (K2,P2) across to 2nd Border, work 2nd Border, slipping markers as you come to them.

 

 

Body Pattern:

Row 5 —

Work 1st Border, SM.

EM1, K 1st Side to next marker, EM1, SM.

K Center Panel.

SM, EM1, K 2nd Side to next marker, EM1.

SM, work 2nd Border.

(4 sts increased)

 

 

Row 6 — Work 1st Border, work (K2,P2) across to 2nd Border, work 2nd Border, slipping markers as you come to them.

 

 

Row 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14  —  Repeat Rows 5 and 6.  (58 sts)

 

 

Next up: shoulder shaping!

 

 

E: Ready to start Row 15

E: Ready to start Row 15

 

 

 

My Abbreviations:

K — knit

P — purl

CO — cast on

PUK — pick up and knit

PM — place marker

SM — slip marker

EM1 — English Make-one or Elizabeth’s Make-one — Make an increase stitch by forming a backwards loop with the yarn and placing this on the RN.  This does not make a hole, the way a YO (yarn-over) does, and works especially well with garter stitch, which is why Elizabeth Zimmermann preferred it for many things. According to Maggie Righetti, it is called English Make-one; since it is favored by EZ, I like to think that the E in my abbreviation can also stand for Elizabeth.

ndl — needle

RN — right needle

LN — left needle

EZ — Elizabeth Zimmermann

patt — pattern

inc — increase

dec — decrease

st — stitch

pw — purlwise

wyif — with yarn in front

 

Also, my designations 1st Border, 2nd Border and 1st Side, 2nd Side refer to these sections of the shawl as you come to them in the row you are working, and so will change from RS to WS.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1st Project: The Rail Yard Shawl

I want a real shawl. I love delicate, lacy things, but in the winter (or in refrigerator-cold air conditioning in the summer) I want a thick, warm, working shawl. And I want it to stay on, without fussing and tugging. Therefore, I want a Faroese shawl. And I need to make it from the top down, because I have no idea whether I have enough yarn.

To complicate matters, I have no instructions handy. I own Myrna Stahman’s book on constructing Faroese-shaped shawls from the neck down, but I’ve had to pack it away in a box with my other knitting books while I do some renovations. So, I thought I’d gather some info online, and then wing it. There isn’t a lot of info available, but enough. Joan Schrouder’s comments on the Ravelry forums have been especially helpful.

The only Faroese-style shawl I’ve ever made was Jackie Erickson-Schweitzer’s Dolly Faroese Shawl (HeartStringsFiberArts.com). This is a delightful little project, intended to help you learn the ropes of Faroese shaping in a quick doll-size project. I highly recommend it to anyone contemplating making a full-size shawl. It gave me a basis of understanding what I’m trying to accomplish, and combining this with the information I gathered from Ravelry and other places on the internet, I hope to be able to create an approximation of a Faroese shawl. Now to decide on yarn and needles.

Dolly Shawl by Jackie E-S